Power Issues

Most common question is 'what battery do I need for my motor?' Here is attempt to answer this question. I'll add info here later.

I plan to cover following topics:

- different motors for Konvas;
- different batteries.

Motors

First of all, Konvas cameras had two different motor mounts. First (early) one is for manual drive, spring-loaded drive, and rheostat motor. Second mount (later one) is for all other motors.

	Simple rheostat motor 25M-8M. It seems to be first electrical motor made for Konvas. It requires 6V DC to run. Consumed current is 9A. Power is 16W. Rheostat controls it's speed. Some other controls are built into the top (like short-cut mode for low-temperature operation).
	This is self-made sync motor for early Konvas (24 fps only). I had it only once, and sold within few minutes after I advertised it. Weird thing. I hope that buyer have much fun playing with it ;-)
	9EPS - rare version of sync motor with pilot tone for later Konvas. It requires additional controller powered with wall AC outlet. It can't be run from battery since it uses AC for synchronization. I still have one of them with the controller. The motor will run at 24 fps only, but it is almost as stable as crystal sync one.
	15EPSS - most common sync motor for Konvas. Yes, it is sync motor (but not crystal sync). It requires external controller, and isn't very convenient. That is why it is not too desired by users though it's parameters (accordingly to manual, at least) are almost same as of 17EP-16APK. Consumed current in up to 9A in standard mode, or up to 23A in forced mode. This motor (it's controller, to be specific) requires 8V battery Information about wiring the motor. As far as the connector goes, 2 of the leads are for the switch, 2 of the leads are for the 2 motors, and 2 of the leads are for the generator motor. 1 lead is not used. Under the switch panel, there is a circuit junction with 5 pins arranged vertically in the housing, between the two motors. With a multimeter, you will have to check which pin goes to which lead at the connector, as the wires are not colorcoded. Assuming that all of these motors are wired the same (which might not be the case, as there are variations sometimes in Russian manufacturing, so don't crucify me - the rest of the info is correct.) The pins each join a color-coded wire running from one of the internal motor components to a clear wire which lead out to the connector you will be replacing. On MY motor, (bottom pin is pin1, top pin is pin5); Pin 1 is (reddish lead, and clear lead) going to the connector and generator motor. Pin 2 is (greenish lead and clear lead) also going to generator motor. Pin 3 joins reddish and greenish wire from the two motors and does not lead out to the connector. Pin 4 is (reddish lead joined to clear lead) connected to one end of main motor series, and Pin 5 (which is a greenish lead joined to clear lead) is the other end of the motor series. So, on my motor, if you apply voltage to pin 4 and pin 5, the motor will run. I don't have the motor in front of me, so i cant remember which is positive and which is negative, but you can stick the multimeter on it (set to DC voltage) on those two pins, and turn the inching knob. If the meter indicates positive voltage follow that polarity as indicated by the leads on the meter. (On my motor, pin 4 appears to be negative, pin 5 positive, which you would think is the opposite, since red is usually thought to be positive...) If you don't get it right, as long as you are within tolerances, you should not damage the motor. If the motor is going in the right direction, the inching knob will be turning counter clockwise (should be an arrow on the knob indicating this). This applies only to this motor, without the attached controller electronics (which you don't have so don't worry about it, but I still have to mention it), as they can be damaged. NEVER apply reversed polarity to the Russian electronics...... Todd
	17EP-16APK - most desirable crystal sync motor (8, 12, 16, 24, 25, 32 FPS). They become rare now, and current price is about $700 for used one. Don't miss your chance to buy it since all supplies of exUSSR may be exhausted by 2006. This motor requires external 12V battery (10,8-16,8V allowed) with disconnecting device. Consumed current is 2.7-4.5A at 24fps. A level of a sound idling at 24 fps is no more than 40 dB. All electronics is inside the motor on four printed boards. Don't connect it wrong trying to plug it to your battery. Repair will cost you at least $200.
	19EP-16APK. Sorry for the same picture. But you'll not see any difference between 17EP and 19EP in fact. It seems that it was just renamed in 1990's when Konvas-1M was renamed to 7M, and 2M to 8M. I suppose that there were some minor modifications, but I don't know which exactly. But they were very insignificant for sure.

I saw also 16EP and 18EP motors, but I don't have them to picture and describe. Your help will be appreciated.

Pinouts

	9EPS pilot tone output Don't know yet
	15EPSS motor cable end 1: Motor 1 2: Motor 2 3: Motor 3 (+) 4: -7.5V DC 5: 'Start' button 6: Motor 3 (-) 7: empty.
	15EPSS controller socket 1: Motor 1 2: Motor 2 3: Motor 3 (+) 4: -7.5V DC 5: 'Start' button 6: Motor 3 (-) 7: empty.
	Power socket of the 17EP motor 1, 2: Ground 3, 4: +12V DC
	Motor end of the 17EP cable 1, 2: Ground 3, 4: +12V DC
	Battery end of the 17EP cable 1, 2: +12V DC 3-8: empty 9, 10: Ground

Batteries

Russian like to encode all info into product name, you know. Available cine batteries are BA-1,5-12, BA-3-12, BA-8-12, BA-1,5-16, BA-3-16, BA-8-16. First two letters means 'Batareya Akkumulyatonaya' (Storage Battery). Following number designates it's capacity - 1.5Ah, 3Ah, or 8Ah. Last number specifies output voltage - 12V (for Konvas) or 16V (for Kinor).

	BA-1.5-12 - 1.5Ah 12V battery. It is standard battery for Konvas 17EP-16APK motor. Attached to the top of the battery is disconnecting device. It controls the battery charge level and disconnects if fron the camera if charge level is too low. After that you should charge the battery using charger pictured at the top and charger cable pictured at the bottom. May be these batteries were good when they were new. But as to their current condition, they can feed a camera for few minutes only. May be 10 minutes maximum. If you want to prolong life of your battery, you need also special discharger.
	BA-8-12 - 8Ah 12V battery. If you are strong enough, you may hang such big battery on your shoulder ;-) It should work 5 times longer than small battery. In theory. Such big batteries were supplied with Kinor-35H/C cameras usually (16V in this case). BTW, I never saw medium size batteries. Why?
	As far as a battery pack goes, I bought a not-too-expensive 12v Bescor battery belt to use with my Konvas 2M motor. All I had to do was change out the connector on the motor cable to match the belt. Mine is a 14AH belt that will run the 2M for a loooonnnngggg time. You can find Bescor batteries online at most video/photography shops. Patrick Steele
	I work on all kinds of cine equipment and am a working DP, owning my own nonlinear editing company, and I own several Konvas cameras. The batteries are simple to replace. On the Konvas KSR-1M with the separate battery compartment and controller, toss the Russian wet cell batteries and go to your favorite hobby shop and in the R/C race car department purchase a SANYO part number DTXC2067 or equivalent 8.4 volt 1500 mAh NiCad battery. To charge you battery purchase the Hobbico AC/DC multi fast charger Model 905. a simple change of the 2 battery end terminals to the male 2 pin in your Russian controller/battery holder and you are ready to rock. Now on the KKonvas-1M gray model with the rheostat motor you can purchase from batteries plus or radio shack a 6V 12.0 Ah batter. This is lead acid sealed battery. The battery is the size a betacam tape and very lite. A 6V charger is dirt cheap. I put the battery onboard the camera as it is so small and lite. Remember comrades it the amp's that do the work on these cameras. Matt Hurley
	I converted the battery connector on the motor cable to three pin XLR male. I know that the standard is 4 pin, but I went crazy trying to find 4 pin XLR cables locally. Also you can buy cheap long length 3 pin XLR mic cables to use as extensions if you have the camera on a Jib. As for batteries, I use these small lead-acid YUASA 12volt 2AH batteries that are meant for home alarms and put XLR females on them. I also got a small charger that's made for the batteries and replaced the alligator clips with a XLR male on it. Works absolutely super-duper perfect. The batteries cost $20 and the charger $17. Make sure you buy NEUTRIK brand XLR connectors, they sell them at Guitar stores. Don't buy the Radio Shack connectors, they really suck, trust me I've been there. You put the battery in a fanny pack and fasten it around the tripod legs and you're set. When making the cables be very careful and don't reverse polarity on the motor because there's a good chance you'll fry it. F.Y.I., on the motor itself, the two pins closest to the notch are negative. Will Vazquez